Friday, June 28, 2013

Wines of Waiheke

Waiheke Island is one of the more unique wine regions that I've had the pleasure to visit. It is situated off the coast New Zealand’s North Island in the Hauraki Gulf, just 11 miles east of Auckland. Its climate is strongly influenced by the surrounding sea. The ocean acts both as a fan and insulator. The sea breezes moderate the rising temperatures during summer and falling temperatures at night. This maritime climate allows a more constant temperature throughout the growing season and even prolongs the season into early autumn allowing later varieties to ripen fully over an extended period of time.

Waiheke can grow and ripen a wider range of grape varieties than other regions because of its long, mild season. The significant variations in soil types and vineyard orientation also play a big role in the different types of varietals that can be grown on Waiheke. The rock that underlies a vineyard is a major factor in determining varietal selections in different terroirs.

Though Waiheke is small in area and typically identified by the boundaries of being an island, it has many different characteristics and different soils with great age and complexity. The island rock is almost entirely of Jurassic age with most of the islands’ vineyards separated by only thin layers of weathered topsoil and clay from ‘massive sequences of Jurassic strata’ from 150 million years ago. Site variation is vast, but in general, Waiheke vineyards are high in mineral content with naturally low pH. This makes plotting new locations of vineyards rewarding to many wine connoisseurs in search of unique varietal expression.

The undulating hills of Waiheke offering different site conditions with each rise and fall

Bordeaux varietals used to dominate the island but growers have recognized the island’s suitability to grow other classic varietals such as the Rhone Valley variety, Syrah, and have selectively moved away from Cabernet Sauvignon blends with new plantings of different varietals.


The frequency and speed of the passenger ferry services from Auckland has boosted tourism and therefore encouraged the development of vineyard cellar doors. Within 35 minutes, visitors now have 26 cellar doors to choose from and many with cafes and restaurants. 
Stonyridge Vineyard is a world-renowned Cabernet blend producer. Stephen White started Stonyridge after a 3-year adventure where he fell in love with the great red wines of France and California. After his inspiring journey around the world, Stephen searched all of New Zealand for the ideal site where Bordeaux grape varieties could be ‘ripened to perfection’. In 1982, he completed his mission and planted the first Bordeaux vines on Waiheke Island. Nowadays, Stonyridge has built a reputation that precedes itself and is currently one of the most expensive red wine producers in New Zealand. 

Stonyridge Cellar Door

I was fortunate to have tasted Stonyridge’s prestigious flagship Cabernet blend, Larose, at our vintage party. My TK winemaker, John Kavanagh, bought this bottle at auction and was gracious enough to share it with us. The 2007 was lovely and dense. It smelled like Christmas with dark fruits, baking spices and hints of violets. The palate was flooded with ripe fruit. Richly textured with lots of oak evident but well balanced by the fruit intensity. Keeping true to its reputation, this bottle is valued at $250 and only goes up in price depending on the vintage…wow!
The first plantings of Mudbrick were in 1992 by owners Nick and Robyn Jones. Currently their plantings include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Syrah, Chardonnay and Viognier which are all handpicked and basket pressed that reflect a certain character in their wines. 

Mudbrick’s 2010 Reserve Cabernet/Merlot was very impressive! Rich flavors present on the nose of ripe black concentrated fruits and hints of chocolate. Really intriguing palate…fruit on front palate, mineral/earth/barrel spice on mid palate and building tannins on finish. Big yet elegant wine!

Cable Bay has five vineyards located on the western side of the island. The winemaking process focuses on small lots from separate parcels of the various vineyards. Afterward, they blend the small lots to create a final product of balanced wines with many layers. 

2010 was a hot and dry year that produced beautifully ripe fruit on Waiheke Island. The Five Hills 2010 is a blend of 58% Merlot and 42% Malbec. It has an intensely fruity nose with notes of black pepper, black currant and ripe blackberry. The palate tastes less ripe than it smells but not under developed…very clean and elegant with notes of black currant, black cherry and a light spiced finish.


Cable Bay north facing vineyard to optimize sun exposure and fruit ripeness

Jurassic Ridge specializes in 100% unblended single vineyard single varietals made to express its unique terroir. The Italian style dry Pinot Grigio was left on skins to give it a peachy blush hue with notes apple, nasi pear and spice on the nose and dry minerality on the finish. Their lees aged Sauvignon Blanc is also worth mentioning with gentle flavors of passion fruit and lime, lively acidity and a lovely lingering finish. I liked this uncharacteristic Sauvignon Blanc so much that I bought a bottle and enjoyed it that night J

Man O’War Vineyard is located at the eastern end of the island by Man O’War Bay. They have carefully selected sites for each varietal and systematically planted their white varieties on the high volcanic hilltops for maximum sun exposure with the benefits of the cool sea breezes that give great concentration and minerality. While their red varieties are planted down steep sheltered clay hillsides for optimum heat and drainage to promote intensity and depth. 

Man O'War Bay

I found their reds to be dense and jam-packed with ripe fruit and more suitable with food rather drinking alone. But their whites on the other hand were very surprising! It was their Valhalla Chardonnay that I found most impressive. Valhalla comes from Norse mythology referring to the golden hall where the Viking warriors feasted with the gods. It is reserved for the best Chardonnay barrels selected by the winemaker each year. 2010 was an excellent dry, hot day, cool night vintage that produced a full bodied, textural and layered Valhalla. The nose has layers of tropical and stone fruits with hints of hazelnut and a slight toasty character. The palate is elegant with developed fruit and a creamy silken nutty texture with vibrant acidity and mineral finish. Top notch in my book and a pleasure to drink on its own or to compliment a wide range of foods. 


Man O'War Cellar Door...you can bring your own picnic to enjoy with their range of wines which we most certainly did!

And my lovely tour guides, knew much more about the island than I ever expected! Who knew you could learn so much from a 5 and 7-year-old??? But don’t worry it was their dad who was my tour guide to the different wineries J

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